This week, I’d like to discuss the last few cost-effective computer upgrades. Some of these upgrades, such as CPU and system board replacements, are more likely to require the services of an experienced local technician to actually implement them.
CD/DVD drives. Modern CD and DVD drives are inexpensive and faster than earlier drives. I’ve bought good-quality Sony CD/DVD drives for as little as $20 to $40. This is an easy and worthwhile upgrade. Remove both side panels and unplug the power and ribbon cables, noting the correct orientation for later reassembly. Unscrew the four screws attaching the drive to the case, slide out the old drive through the front panel and slide in the new drive from the front panel. Reattach screws, power plug and data cable.
Upgrading CPU processors and system boards. I usually don’t recommend that an inexperienced home user upgrade either the CPU processor or the system board even though they can be a worthwhile upgrade. Unless you have prior experience replacing a CPU, there is a very good chance that you will permanently damage this expensive but fragile component. A professional technician can usually do the upgrade in a fairly short time.
The most cost-effective CPU upgrade would be one in which you substitute a significantly faster version of the same processor type. Usually, the most economical and beneficial approach involves replacing an entry-level CPU with a later, faster version of the same product line, installing additional cooling as needed. I believe the best cost-performance ratio is usually found in CPUs that are one speed grade lower than the current top-end model. Because system board and memory hardware may differ among product lines, you probably should consult an experienced local technician to evaluate whether it’s worth upgrading your system, determining the most appropriate replacement CPU, and have that technician do the upgrade.
Upgrading system boards is even more difficult. You’ll need to make many different sorts of connections and set numerous options during system board installation. Unless you already have significant experience installing new system boards, this is definitely a job for an experienced technician.
My current preference for cost-effective CPUs is the 2.8 Ghz AMD quad-core Phenom II line. Although most operating systems do not efficiently use all four CPUs on any processing chip, this new processor line does have significant overall performance improvements compared to earlier models. You’ll most likely need to upgrade the system board and memory. The Phenom II requires DDR2 1066 memory and a system board with an AM2+ socket. I like the Gigabyte boards built around the AMD 790 series chipsets.
Power supplies. The fast new hardware that we’ve discussed over the past several weeks does require a lot of power and cooling, and you may need to upgrade your power supply. At this time, I am using 600-watt power supplies to ensure that there’s ample power, especially if you have installed more than one hard disk. The brand is not important but be sure it has enough of the right kinds of power plugs — at least two, preferably four, SATA hard disk power plugs, at least one six-pin PCI-E video card plug, plus the usual 20-pin and four-pin system board main power plugs. You’ll want a floppy disk power connector and some spare, traditional four-pin Molex power plugs for your CD/DVD, fans and front panel power lights. The power supply should have one or two large, quiet fans. I prefer 120-millimeter fans to move a lot of air quietly.
Replacing the power supply is not difficult if you take care to avoid disturbing other cables, connections and settings inside your computer. Open up both side panels of the computer case. Disconnect the main AC power card from the wall outlet. Then disconnect all internal connections to system boards, disk drives of all sorts, fans and video cards. Remove the four rear screws that attach the power supply to the case, carefully sliding it out to avoid hitting and damaging other components. Slide in the new power supply, attach the screws and reconnect the various power plugs.
Ideally, rather than leaving a tangled mess of power wires inside the computer case where they can get caught in fans or tug on other connections, take some heavy wire ties, loop the extra connectors and overly long cables into one or more neat bundles and wire tie them together.
Video card upgrades. Upgrading to a really fast video card is worthwhile only if you are a serious gamer, a designer using AutoCAD or using the latest version of Adobe PhotoShop CS4 and other higher-end Abode products. Most business users will not see any obvious benefit.
Having said that, upgrading a video card can be easy if your intended upgrade card contains the same brand video chipsets as the video card you’re replacing. Although there are many video card brands, almost all include basic video chipsets made by either ATI or nVidia.
Both of these vendors use what’s often termed “unified drivers,” which means the recent ATI or nVidia device driver software will work with nearly all brands of recent video cards using a wide range of low-end to high-end ATI or nVidia chipsets. That’s a positive development because mismatched video driver software will usually result in a complete system crash at boot-up.
For this reason, a home upgrader is well-advised to purchase an upgrade card that incorporates the basic video chips from the same vendor as their existing display hardware and to first ensure they have already installed the latest stable device driver software from either ATI or nVidia, as appropriate. Under the best circumstances, physically swapping the video cards will be all that’s required.
To determine whether your computer currently uses either ATI or nVidia video chipsets, check the printed materials that came with your computer. If that is not clear, go to “Start,” “Settings,” “Control Panel,” “System,” “Hardware” tab, “Device Manager” button, “Display Adapters” and then click on the “Display Adapters” + box. Windows will list the video chipset manufacturer and series. Double click on the chipset listing and you will bring up the “Properties” box. Click on the “Driver” table and Windows will list complete information about which video card device driver software is currently installed. If it’s within a year or so, there should be no problem.
You can manually check for a standard update by clicking on “Start,” “Windows Update” and select the “custom” button. After Windows Update checks your computer for currently installed software, click on the “Hardware, optional” button to see whether newer video software is available and certified by Microsoft. If so, choose and install it.
If you decide to upgrade with a video card using a different vendor’s chipsets, then you simply need to temporarily set your display to VGA 640 x 480 or 800 x 600 before starting your upgrade. To do this, right click on a blank area of your Windows desktop, choose “Properties,” then the “Settings” tab and adjust the “screen resolution” slider to these lower resolutions.
Because I use several high-end Adobe products in my legal practice, I looked carefully for an advanced video chipset that supported all of the various Adobe Master Suite CS4 products, not just PhotoShop. Weirdly, some of the Adobe products packaged together as Abode Master Collection CS4 are certified with some video chipsets and other Adobe products are certified with an entirely different group of video chipsets.
The only economical video chipset that I found to be broadly compatible was the ATI Radeon 3870 set of products. Because I have been using lower-end Radeon video cards for some time, installing a 3870-based video card was easy, at least for Windows XP systems. I found the single ATI 3870 GPU cards made by Sapphire were fast, well made and affordable, costing between $85 and $100.
Summary Upgrade Specifications. Here’s a modern computer system that I would consider a very good balance of performance and cost-effectiveness:
1. Mid-tower case with 600-watt power supply, brand unimportant.
2. AMD Phenom II 2.8 gigahertz CPU processor.
3. Gigabyte Socket AM2+ system board, model depending upon your particular peripheral device needs. I prefer the newer AMD 790 series of chipsets.
4. Four gigabytes DDR2 1066 DRAM memory.
5. Video card based upon ATI single-processor 3870 GPU chipset. Sapphire brand has been reliable and inexpensive.
6. Sony or comparable 16x DVD and CD burner.
7. Standard 3.5-inch, 1.44 MB floppy disk for operating system installation.
8. Western Digital Black Caviar 640GB WD6401AALS hard disk. If you are interested in maximum performance, then use a 10,000-rpm Western Digital. 300GB VeliceRaptor hard disk as your C: boot drive and program storage drive and the 640 GB WD6401AALS drive as your D: drive where your data would be stored.
9. Logitech wireless keyboard and mouse. Surprisingly, the less expensive models seem more reliable.
10. Digital monitor to taste. At the moment, the 23- and 24-inch 1080p flat screen monitors from Acer, ASUS, HP and Samsung seem like the best deals.
Video Card Setup: WARNING: If any technical setup information below seems at all confusing to you, then I would urge you to stop at this time and either abandon any video upgrade or get the job done by a competent local technician.
A few days before you update your video device driver software, and again when you later upgrade your video hardware go to Windows “Start,” “Settings,” “Control Panel,” “System,” “System Restore” and be absolutely sure that “System Restore” has been operating and tracking all drives. Use your system regularly for a few days to ensure that you have at least one good system restore point..
When you are ready to install the new video card, shut down your computer, ground yourself to avoid static discharge, and unplug the power cord. Open the side panel that allows access to the system board. Find the first PCI-E card slot. If your computer is too old to include a PCI-E slot, then it is too old to be worth upgrading even if you could still find the older hardware.
The physical side of the upgrade process can be straightforward unless other computer components physically get in the way. Many modern computers, particularly less expensive systems, often include a lower-end video display on the system board rather than as a separate video card. In that case, you will not have a separate display card to first remove but instead you’ll just plug the new video card directly into the first PCI-E slot, secure it to the case with the appropriate screw, and, if required, plug in a 6-pin auxiliary power cable.
However, when you next reboot, you will first need to go into the BIOS setup and configure your hardware to set the new video card as the default boot-up display. If you don’t have a free 6-pin power plug, then you will need to get a simple adapter from older 4-pin Molex power plugs to a 6-pin PCI-E video card power plug.
Again, don’t try this at home if you are at all uncertain about what to do. Instead, have a local technician do the work for you. Making a mistake in the BIOS setup can make your system unusable until a technician restores the BIOS to factory defaults.
Physically installing a powerful new video card can be sublimely easy or really tricky, depending upon whether your system has a modern power supply with a free 6-pin power plug for the PCI-E video card and depending upon whether your existing computer has system board components, hard disks, cables or other hardware that physically get in the way.
Even if your system does not have a free six-pin PCI-E power connector, a computer technician often can provide a simple adapter that converts traditional four pin Molex power connectors to 6-pin PCI-E, so this is not a serious problem. Likewise, if you have cables or hard disks that physically interfere, these can be moved if you know what you’re doing. However, both of these factors should be taken into account before you decide whether to install a faster video card. Upgrading simply may not be worth the trouble.
I upgraded three Windows XP and Windows XP x64 computers with these Sapphire video cards and found that the upgrades to Windows XP systems were easy and worthwhile. Upgrading the Windows XP x64 system was troublesome because ATI’s newest 2009 x64 drivers were not stable, forcing me rebuild the system and revert to ATI’s older but stable July 2008 x64 software. I would expect the same stability problems with the 64-bit version of Windows Vista, which is based upon the XP x64 software.
If you experience any crashing after upgrading device driver hardware, then boot up in Windows Safe Mode by passing the F8 key several times during your next boot-up. Windows Safe Mode will start and then ask you whether you wish to boot normally. Answer No and then choose a system restore point that you know will work reliably. Your system will revert to the earlier software and settings, thus giving you a stable system and another chance to cause yourself grief.
After you have physically installed any new video card, then run the installation disk that comes with your new hardware and again go to “properties”, “settings” to configure your new display to your taste.
Local attorney Joe Kashi received his bachelor’s and master’s degrees from MIT and his law degree from Georgetown University. He has published many articles about computer technology, law practice and digital photography in national media since 1990. Many of his technology and photography articles can be accessed through his Web site, www.kashilaw.com.
Showing posts with label Plugged in. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Plugged in. Show all posts
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Tuesday, January 6, 2009
Plugged In: When Windows cracks, try free software fixes first
Windows certainly has its foibles, and it’s a bit odd that the most effective fixes are typically inexpensive or free third-party utilities available primarily as Internet purchases or as free downloads.
Here are some that I’ve found invaluable when a Windows installation has become unstable or slow, but is not yet so flaky that a time-consuming reinstallation becomes necessary. Think of these as minor maintenance.
Local attorney Joseph Kashi received his bachelor’s and master’s degrees from MIT and has been writing and lecturing about technology throughout the U.S. since 1990 for American Bar Association, Alaska Bar Association and private publications. He also owned a computer store in Soldotna between 1990 and 2000.
Here are some that I’ve found invaluable when a Windows installation has become unstable or slow, but is not yet so flaky that a time-consuming reinstallation becomes necessary. Think of these as minor maintenance.
- Ace Utilities. Ace Utilities is a reliable compact program that’s much less expensive than Norton, with lower system demands. Except for hard disk optimization, it performs basically the same diagnostics and Windows Registry clearing as Norton Utilities, but only on demand rather than as a potentially intrusive background process that runs continuously. I’ll typically run Ace Utilities as a first response whenever a computer system seems to be balky or slightly unstable. You can download a 30-day trial version at http://www.acelogix.com.
- Free RAM Optimizer. Acelogix also provides, as a free download to its customers, a Windows memory optimizer. I’ve installed it on a home computer with 2 GB RAM, a computer that’s often used to edit photo files that may be several hundred megabytes each. This system often slowed nearly to a halt as a result of RAM overloads and resultant hard disk data swapping. Ace’s RAM Optimizer seems to have somewhat reduced such performance bottlenecks to a tolerable level without any noticeable adverse effects. Programs like this will make a difference when available RAM is low as a result of many programs loaded simultaneously or when you are intensively processing very large files, such as running text recognition on a several-hundred-page Acrobat document or sharpening a massive photographic file. You can download this program from www.acelogix.com.
- Upgrading Performance. I’ve mentioned Diskeeper (www.diskeeper.com) in a prior article as one of the most effective long-term ways to improve overall computer performance. Other useful programs for detecting bottlenecks and tuning hard disk performance are HD Tune and Performance Test (www.passmark.com). You can download a free, 30-day trial of the full Performance Test program, and I recommend it as a means of finding performance bottlenecks in your existing system and checking whether any upgrades are worthwhile. Remember the common wisdom that you’ll need at least a 50 percent overall system performance increase before an ordinary business user will perceive any useful improvement. Passmark also provides a 30-day free trial of their “burn-in” software that stress tests computer systems for potentially flaky components. You should definitely run burn-in software on any new system, particularly before any return period expires.
- Belarc Advisor. Windows handles security and other issues by applying a series of “patches” to fix specific portions of the operating system code. Sometimes, though, patches are not properly applied and various portions of your operating system can become mismatched and thus potentially unstable. Belarc Advisor, a free download available from www.belarc.com, checks your operating system for vulnerabilities, installed software and its status, and Windows components. If one or more Windows components or patches are not as they should be, such items are flagged and you will be directed to the specific part of Microsoft’s Web site where a corrective download and/or more information are available. This program is invaluable when you need it. It certainly beats reinstalling Windows and all of your programs and data, not to mention relicensing hassles. Belarc Advisor also provides a lot of other useful information about your hardware and software, such as data on all installed programs.
- Dial-a-Fix. The other free Windows repair utility that’s occasionally worked wonders on an unstable system is “Dial-a-Fix,” which I’ve found available from a number of sites on the Web. Dial-a-Fix has resurrected systems that otherwise seemed destined for a hard disk reformat and complete reinstallation of Windows. I have never experienced any damage on a Windows installation from its use. In addition to trying the basic menu options, also try some of the various options in the Tools button, but avoid any of the reinstallation options unless absolutely necessary.
- Hard disk failures. I have found a lot of useful hard disk resurrection and repair information at http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk. This site links to some potentially useful open-source programs, but I have not personally tested them.
Local attorney Joseph Kashi received his bachelor’s and master’s degrees from MIT and has been writing and lecturing about technology throughout the U.S. since 1990 for American Bar Association, Alaska Bar Association and private publications. He also owned a computer store in Soldotna between 1990 and 2000.
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Plugged In: All you want for Christmas is a new PC?
I wrote a nice, frilly lead for these last-minute Christmas computer shopping tips, but didn’t even send it to the editor because, really, it makes more sense to cut to the chase.
It’s nearly Christmas and, if you’re reading this article, you weren’t able to get a seat on any plane out of Alaska over the holidays. You or your spouse instead have decided to buy a hot new computer to warm the cold nights and want the most for your money. What should you buy on Christmas Eve or at the post-Christmas sales? Here are some subtle hints that you can give your spouse in the form of highly detailed specification sheets.
For many years, the best deals in computing hardware have been custom-configured systems using standardized, high-grade components. Not only are custom-configured systems more tuned to your particular needs, but they’re easier to upgrade and repair later. Most brand-name computers use proprietary components that are not easily replaced by third-party parts, many of which are often as good or better than the original equipment.
In Alaska, the most common proprietary systems are Dell computers, usually purchased over the Internet, and HP computers sold at Costco, Fred Meyer stores and other retail chains. Of the two, I prefer HP for solid basic hardware. I have heard some recent service reports that suggest the potential for reliability problems on Dell systems, although they have been generally reliable. The extremely low advertised prices for Dell systems do not necessarily reflect the final price after you’ve completed the customization process and added all of the necessary (or desired) components.
There’s one other drawback to long-distance computer purchases by nontechnical users: something may go wrong, and the central Kenai Peninsula is a long way from the nearest service personnel. Overall, I believe that nontechnical users are better off buying a custom-configured “white box” system from a local computer shop, of which there are several in Soldotna and Kenai, including the source of the price quotes for these articles, Peninsula Technology in Soldotna across the Spur Highway from Beemun’s.
Here are the considerations that I would take into account when buying a new computer. I have personally built all of my own systems for the past 20 years and have had my share of both good and bad decisions, most of which linger in memory because I spent my own money on them.
Nearly any computer made within the last three or four years is fast enough for casual Internet use, basic word processing and basic business accounting.
Contrary to a lot of hyped advertising, these simple applications do not demand a huge amount of performance and a reliable lower-end system is quite adequate.
On the other hand, people buying computers to play video games are never content with the performance of any system costing under about $6,000. That’s partly because cutting-edge video games require extremely high performance for smooth response, and partly because some gamers don’t have much of a life when there’s a power outage. Bragging rights about whose system is minutely faster seem to count for a lot among gamers, as well. Graphic artists, multimedia authors, engineers and PhotoShop users also welcome high-end performance. Most business users are somewhere in the middle.
All major operating systems have their advantages and disadvantages. Both the Macintosh and Linux operating systems are probably technically superior to Microsoft’s current offerings, but there’s no realistic probability of a wholesale abandonment of the massive installed base of Windows systems. As a result, most current business and recreational software runs natively on Windows systems, and that commonality is a major benefit.
Most Windows users grew comfortable with 32-bit Windows XP, introduced in 2001 and still the most common installed version of Windows. Over the past two years, Microsoft has tried to move its installed base to the more recent Windows Vista system, but with decidedly mixed success.
There are in fact two major versions, and several sub-flavors, of Windows Vista. The 32-bit version of Vista has developed a deservedly bad reputation for poor performance and other problems, to the extent that many people actually buy a copy of Windows XP and reformat their new computer with the older XP operating system.
I did that with an HP mini-notebook computer I recently purchased. This low-power computer took over five minutes to boot with the 32-bit version of Vista, but only 45 seconds when I installed Windows XP instead. Given the choice between Windows XP and 32-bit Windows Vista, go with XP any day, even though Microsoft has been trying to kill XP for two years despite the protests of no-nonsense business users who couldn’t care less that Vista’s interface looks more like a Macintosh.
The choice is a bit more complex at the 64-bit level. All other things being equal, a 64-bit computer operating system should run faster than a 32-bit operating system because a 64-bit operating system is capable of taking better advantage of modern CPU processors and memory.
The 64-bit version of Windows Vista is actually pretty solid, fast and reliable. It’s built upon Microsoft’s less well-known, but highly stable, 64-bit version of Windows XP Professional, usually called Windows XP x64. Indeed, the commonality between these differently named operating systems is so high that 64-bit Vista “device driver” software usually works on a Windows XP x64 system. I have not encountered any unsolvable problems running regular Windows software on Windows XP x64.
DDR-type Random Access Memory is both inexpensive and one of the best ways to avoid computer performance bottlenecks, especially with demanding applications like PhotoShop or Adobe Lightroom. I suggest 2 gigabyte (2 GB) RAM for Windows XP computer systems and 4 GB for Windows 64-bit Vista and Windows XP x64 systems.
Use DDR type RAM that’s matched to the CPU and system board of your computer and that is certified to run at the full speed of your system board. RAM is pretty much a commodity anymore.
Any major brand should suffice so long as its base speed is at least equal to that required by your computer system.
Next week, I’ll discuss cost-effective CPU processors and main system boards.
Local attorney Joseph Kashi received his bachelor’s and master’s degrees from MIT and has been writing and lecturing about technology throughout the U.S. since 1990 for American Bar Association, Alaska Bar Association and private publications. He also owned a computer store in Soldotna between 1990 and 2000.
It’s nearly Christmas and, if you’re reading this article, you weren’t able to get a seat on any plane out of Alaska over the holidays. You or your spouse instead have decided to buy a hot new computer to warm the cold nights and want the most for your money. What should you buy on Christmas Eve or at the post-Christmas sales? Here are some subtle hints that you can give your spouse in the form of highly detailed specification sheets.
For many years, the best deals in computing hardware have been custom-configured systems using standardized, high-grade components. Not only are custom-configured systems more tuned to your particular needs, but they’re easier to upgrade and repair later. Most brand-name computers use proprietary components that are not easily replaced by third-party parts, many of which are often as good or better than the original equipment.
In Alaska, the most common proprietary systems are Dell computers, usually purchased over the Internet, and HP computers sold at Costco, Fred Meyer stores and other retail chains. Of the two, I prefer HP for solid basic hardware. I have heard some recent service reports that suggest the potential for reliability problems on Dell systems, although they have been generally reliable. The extremely low advertised prices for Dell systems do not necessarily reflect the final price after you’ve completed the customization process and added all of the necessary (or desired) components.
There’s one other drawback to long-distance computer purchases by nontechnical users: something may go wrong, and the central Kenai Peninsula is a long way from the nearest service personnel. Overall, I believe that nontechnical users are better off buying a custom-configured “white box” system from a local computer shop, of which there are several in Soldotna and Kenai, including the source of the price quotes for these articles, Peninsula Technology in Soldotna across the Spur Highway from Beemun’s.
Here are the considerations that I would take into account when buying a new computer. I have personally built all of my own systems for the past 20 years and have had my share of both good and bad decisions, most of which linger in memory because I spent my own money on them.
Intended uses
Nearly any computer made within the last three or four years is fast enough for casual Internet use, basic word processing and basic business accounting.
Contrary to a lot of hyped advertising, these simple applications do not demand a huge amount of performance and a reliable lower-end system is quite adequate.
On the other hand, people buying computers to play video games are never content with the performance of any system costing under about $6,000. That’s partly because cutting-edge video games require extremely high performance for smooth response, and partly because some gamers don’t have much of a life when there’s a power outage. Bragging rights about whose system is minutely faster seem to count for a lot among gamers, as well. Graphic artists, multimedia authors, engineers and PhotoShop users also welcome high-end performance. Most business users are somewhere in the middle.
Operating systems
All major operating systems have their advantages and disadvantages. Both the Macintosh and Linux operating systems are probably technically superior to Microsoft’s current offerings, but there’s no realistic probability of a wholesale abandonment of the massive installed base of Windows systems. As a result, most current business and recreational software runs natively on Windows systems, and that commonality is a major benefit.
Most Windows users grew comfortable with 32-bit Windows XP, introduced in 2001 and still the most common installed version of Windows. Over the past two years, Microsoft has tried to move its installed base to the more recent Windows Vista system, but with decidedly mixed success.
There are in fact two major versions, and several sub-flavors, of Windows Vista. The 32-bit version of Vista has developed a deservedly bad reputation for poor performance and other problems, to the extent that many people actually buy a copy of Windows XP and reformat their new computer with the older XP operating system.
I did that with an HP mini-notebook computer I recently purchased. This low-power computer took over five minutes to boot with the 32-bit version of Vista, but only 45 seconds when I installed Windows XP instead. Given the choice between Windows XP and 32-bit Windows Vista, go with XP any day, even though Microsoft has been trying to kill XP for two years despite the protests of no-nonsense business users who couldn’t care less that Vista’s interface looks more like a Macintosh.
The choice is a bit more complex at the 64-bit level. All other things being equal, a 64-bit computer operating system should run faster than a 32-bit operating system because a 64-bit operating system is capable of taking better advantage of modern CPU processors and memory.
The 64-bit version of Windows Vista is actually pretty solid, fast and reliable. It’s built upon Microsoft’s less well-known, but highly stable, 64-bit version of Windows XP Professional, usually called Windows XP x64. Indeed, the commonality between these differently named operating systems is so high that 64-bit Vista “device driver” software usually works on a Windows XP x64 system. I have not encountered any unsolvable problems running regular Windows software on Windows XP x64.
Memory
DDR-type Random Access Memory is both inexpensive and one of the best ways to avoid computer performance bottlenecks, especially with demanding applications like PhotoShop or Adobe Lightroom. I suggest 2 gigabyte (2 GB) RAM for Windows XP computer systems and 4 GB for Windows 64-bit Vista and Windows XP x64 systems.
Use DDR type RAM that’s matched to the CPU and system board of your computer and that is certified to run at the full speed of your system board. RAM is pretty much a commodity anymore.
Any major brand should suffice so long as its base speed is at least equal to that required by your computer system.
Next week, I’ll discuss cost-effective CPU processors and main system boards.
Local attorney Joseph Kashi received his bachelor’s and master’s degrees from MIT and has been writing and lecturing about technology throughout the U.S. since 1990 for American Bar Association, Alaska Bar Association and private publications. He also owned a computer store in Soldotna between 1990 and 2000.
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Plugged In: Shooting for quality: A snapshot of digital cameras
Editor's note: No new cameras of consequence were introduced at the annual photo marketing show in March, so the cameras listed here should be current through about July.
Christmas is nearly upon us and, because digital cameras have become one of the most common gifts for Christmas, I’ve decided to discuss how to buy digital cameras in this pre-Christmas issue.
There are some major facts and misconceptions about buying digital cameras that I’d like to address first, because understanding them should result in more informed purchases and usage.
The basic technical knowledge required for highest-quality digital photography is the same as with traditional film cameras — correct exposure, good focus and depth of field, proper contrast and tonal quality, good color balance, avoiding blurring due to camera shake, using an optically sharp lens and all the rest. Even a high-end digital camera will not turn an indifferent film photographer into the next Ansel Adams, although it can help a knowledgeable photographer avoid some pitfalls.
A digital camera’s sensor acts very similar to traditional film, particularly high-contrast slide film. Except when using very large-sensor professional cameras, using higher ISO sensitivity ratings usually results in poor color and tone separation in shadows and highlight details, and in higher image noise that looks and acts just like film grain. As ISO settings increase, these problems gradually degrade image quality until it becomes unusable. This happens very quickly with small sensors that pack too many pixels into too small a space, causing serious electronic interference between adjacent pixels on the sensor.
A higher number of megapixels (MP) advertised for a particular camera does not guarantee higher sharpness and image quality, despite attempts by marketing departments to convince consumers otherwise. The megapixel race basically dupes consumers into buying this year’s model. Pros know that a good 10MP camera, used properly, can produce high-grade professional images. Given the current state of the art in digital sensors and electronics, there is an optimum megapixel level for each type of digital sensor.
Just as film cameras that used larger negatives usually produced better-quality photographs, digital cameras that house larger sensors will usually produce better-quality images than those with smaller sensors, particularly at the higher ISO sensitivities needed in dim light, when using high magnification telephoto lenses and when you’re taking high-speed action shots. Remember that unlike film, a digital sensor cannot be changed for something better — you’re stuck with it for the life of the camera.
Midrange sensors are usually listed as 2/3-inch, 1/1.6-inch, 1/1.7-inch or 1/1.8-inch. These sizes once were also used in higher-quality consumer cameras, but are now mostly found in high-end compact cameras intended for serious use. When used in good light at their lowest ISO settings (about ISO 50 to 200), high-end compact cameras using midrange sensors can take professional-quality photographs. Ten to 12 megapixels is about the useful limit for top-grade cameras using midsize sensors. Some of the more expensive compact cameras claim to squash 14 to 15 megapixels onto a small or midrange sensor, and I’m sure that even higher numbers are on the way. In such cases, image quality is often worse than in earlier models with fewer megapixels.
Most digital Single Lens Reflex (dSLR) cameras use what’s termed an APS-C size sensor that’s about half the size of traditional 35mm film but still several times larger than a midrange sensor. An APS-C sensor is capable of providing excellent quality photographs under a much wider variety of lighting conditions and high-speed photography compared to a high-end compact camera. A dSLR camera usually has a faster operating speed, often taking three to six frames a second when needed. Fifteen to 16 megapixels seems to be the reasonable upper limit for large APS-C sensors at the moment.
At the upper end of price and performance are the so-called “full frame” professional-grade cameras, whose 35mm film-sized frame sensor operates well, even in low light and at faster shutter speeds. However, even when comparing these mega-thousand-dollar cameras with relatively big sensors, lower megapixel sensors using larger pixels still produce better-quality images.
Zoom lenses with long zoom ratios, such as 15X, are more expensive and seem to appeal to less knowledgeable buyers. However, it’s truly difficult to wring good optical quality across a wide zoom range. Stick with zoom lenses whose zoom ratio is 6X or less — preferably less. You’ll get a lot more optical quality for less money. “Kit” lenses bundled with entry-level digital SLR cameras are often less sharp than high-end compact cameras, like the Canon G10. Do your homework and check the review sites listed below before making a purchase.
Lens sharpness remains critical but impossible to gauge by looking at a camera or reading ads. You should research potential purchases by checking some serious digital camera review sites. I’ve found that the best overall comparative camera reviews are found at www.imaging-resource.com, www.dcresource.com, www.steves-digicams.com, www.dpreview.com (British) and www.cameralabs.com (New Zealand).
The best inter-changeable lens reviews are at www.photozone.de (German), www.dpreview.com and www.imaging-resource.com. By far the best comparison of the digital sensors found in high-end cameras is at www.dxomark.com (French). All of these resources are English language sites.
Although all current digital cameras can save pictures in a compressed, ready-to-use JPEG file format, using JPEG compromises your ability to later correct and enhance photos and usually reduces overall quality and resolution. A camera that allows you to optionally use an uncompressed “RAW” file format is much more flexible and can capture the highest quality images.
However, you will need RAW-capable software, of which Adobe Photoshop Elements 7 is the least expensive, usually about $80 at Costco. Adobe Photoshop Lightroom ($299 list price) is a very modern, wonderfully intuitive and high-quality program that really shines with RAW images. Lightroom is fast becoming the choice of professional photographers. It’s still sufficiently easy to use and inexpensive so it’s also well-suited for any photographer who wants to get the most out of a higher-end camera. All digital SLR cameras, and a few higher-end compact cameras, have optional RAW file format capability.
Casual family snapshots that will be displayed on smaller computer monitors or digital photo frames and will rarely be enlarged much beyond standard 4-by-6 or 8-by-10 prints. My recommendations for compact casual cameras include the Canon A590 IS, the Pentax W60, the Kodak z1085 IS, and the higher-end models in Sony’s W series, such as the Sony W120.
The best buy is the Canon A590 IS. Panasonic’s FX150 is a worthy high-end casual camera with the bonus of optional RAW files. Best buys for high-magnification, long-zoom ratio cameras include Kodak’s z1012 IS or, if you also want a RAW file option, the Kodak z1015 IS or the Panasonic FZ28, whose 18X Leica lens is considered unusually good. Unfortunately, the lower-end consumer models from Nikon and Olympus tend to get rather poor reviews.
Business users such as engineers, contractors, government agencies and attorneys who need to document specific evidence easily and with sharp detail. Suitable entry-level dSLR cameras include the Pentax K200d (it has the best kit lens), the Canon XSi (EOS 450D), and the Olympus E520. Semipro quality compact cameras for professional users are pretty much limited to the Canon G10 and the Panasonic LX3.
Lower-level but still decent-quality compact cameras with good lenses and midrange sensors include the Fuji F60fd or Fuji S100fs, the Nikon P6000, the Panasonic FX150 and the Kodak z1085IS.
Frequent travelers and vacationers who need decent quality in a very compact, versatile camera. Consider the Canon SD880 IS, the Canon SD990 IS or the Panasonic TZ-5.
“Enthusiasts,” including hobbyists, serious photography students at the college and university level and fine art photographers. Cameras in this range are often considered “semipro” models. The only semipro-level compact cameras worth considering are the 15MP Canon G10 and the 10MP Panasonic LX-3. Both are polished models. There are several very good digital SLR cameras in this range and so many lens options that you really should check some rigorous reviews before making a purchase.
One of the best is Nikon’s new D90, whose image quality and usability seem superb, especially with Nikon’s new, very sharp 16mm-85mm lens. I also like Pentax’s quite rugged, weather-sealed K20d with the older but still excellent 16mm-45mm F4 and 28mm-105mm F 3.2 lenses. The Pentax lenses are often the sharpest available in their price range, assuming you get a properly assembled copy. Canon’s new 50D is also highly regarded, but check out whichever Canon lens is sold with the body — the newer versions are fine but the older optics had a deservedly bad reputation. The image quality of Sony’s entries in this category, the A300 and A350, has been unfavorably compared to the similar Pentax K20d and Canon 50D.
Although professional photographers will sometimes use a semipro model like the Nikon D300, the Pentax K20d or the Canon 50D, serious working pros often prefer full frame digital SLR cameras. The least expensive full frame camera bodies are the Canon 5D Mark II, the Nikon D700, and the Sony A900, which range between $2,700 and $3,000, without a lens.
Unless you’ve got the proceeds of your most recent bank robbery still stuffed in your mattress, purchasing a full frame digital camera is probably beyond the needs and the means of anyone who can’t legitimately deduct it.
Local attorney Joseph Kashi received his bachelor’s and master’s degrees from MIT and has been writing and lecturing about technology throughout the U.S. since 1990 for American Bar Association, Alaska Bar Association and private publications. He also owned a computer store in Soldotna between 1990 and 2000.
Christmas is nearly upon us and, because digital cameras have become one of the most common gifts for Christmas, I’ve decided to discuss how to buy digital cameras in this pre-Christmas issue.
There are some major facts and misconceptions about buying digital cameras that I’d like to address first, because understanding them should result in more informed purchases and usage.
The basic technical knowledge required for highest-quality digital photography is the same as with traditional film cameras — correct exposure, good focus and depth of field, proper contrast and tonal quality, good color balance, avoiding blurring due to camera shake, using an optically sharp lens and all the rest. Even a high-end digital camera will not turn an indifferent film photographer into the next Ansel Adams, although it can help a knowledgeable photographer avoid some pitfalls.
A digital camera’s sensor acts very similar to traditional film, particularly high-contrast slide film. Except when using very large-sensor professional cameras, using higher ISO sensitivity ratings usually results in poor color and tone separation in shadows and highlight details, and in higher image noise that looks and acts just like film grain. As ISO settings increase, these problems gradually degrade image quality until it becomes unusable. This happens very quickly with small sensors that pack too many pixels into too small a space, causing serious electronic interference between adjacent pixels on the sensor.
A higher number of megapixels (MP) advertised for a particular camera does not guarantee higher sharpness and image quality, despite attempts by marketing departments to convince consumers otherwise. The megapixel race basically dupes consumers into buying this year’s model. Pros know that a good 10MP camera, used properly, can produce high-grade professional images. Given the current state of the art in digital sensors and electronics, there is an optimum megapixel level for each type of digital sensor.
Just as film cameras that used larger negatives usually produced better-quality photographs, digital cameras that house larger sensors will usually produce better-quality images than those with smaller sensors, particularly at the higher ISO sensitivities needed in dim light, when using high magnification telephoto lenses and when you’re taking high-speed action shots. Remember that unlike film, a digital sensor cannot be changed for something better — you’re stuck with it for the life of the camera.
Sensing a difference
The smallest sensors are usually termed 1/2.3-inch or 1/2.5-inch. These usually have the lowest image quality and are primarily useful for very compact casual cameras and compact cameras that mount high-magnification zoom lenses. Eight to 10 megapixels is usually about as much as can be rationally fit on these small sensors. Any more and you’ll usually start losing image quality, rather than gaining it.Midrange sensors are usually listed as 2/3-inch, 1/1.6-inch, 1/1.7-inch or 1/1.8-inch. These sizes once were also used in higher-quality consumer cameras, but are now mostly found in high-end compact cameras intended for serious use. When used in good light at their lowest ISO settings (about ISO 50 to 200), high-end compact cameras using midrange sensors can take professional-quality photographs. Ten to 12 megapixels is about the useful limit for top-grade cameras using midsize sensors. Some of the more expensive compact cameras claim to squash 14 to 15 megapixels onto a small or midrange sensor, and I’m sure that even higher numbers are on the way. In such cases, image quality is often worse than in earlier models with fewer megapixels.
Most digital Single Lens Reflex (dSLR) cameras use what’s termed an APS-C size sensor that’s about half the size of traditional 35mm film but still several times larger than a midrange sensor. An APS-C sensor is capable of providing excellent quality photographs under a much wider variety of lighting conditions and high-speed photography compared to a high-end compact camera. A dSLR camera usually has a faster operating speed, often taking three to six frames a second when needed. Fifteen to 16 megapixels seems to be the reasonable upper limit for large APS-C sensors at the moment.
At the upper end of price and performance are the so-called “full frame” professional-grade cameras, whose 35mm film-sized frame sensor operates well, even in low light and at faster shutter speeds. However, even when comparing these mega-thousand-dollar cameras with relatively big sensors, lower megapixel sensors using larger pixels still produce better-quality images.
Zoom lenses with long zoom ratios, such as 15X, are more expensive and seem to appeal to less knowledgeable buyers. However, it’s truly difficult to wring good optical quality across a wide zoom range. Stick with zoom lenses whose zoom ratio is 6X or less — preferably less. You’ll get a lot more optical quality for less money. “Kit” lenses bundled with entry-level digital SLR cameras are often less sharp than high-end compact cameras, like the Canon G10. Do your homework and check the review sites listed below before making a purchase.
Lens sharpness remains critical but impossible to gauge by looking at a camera or reading ads. You should research potential purchases by checking some serious digital camera review sites. I’ve found that the best overall comparative camera reviews are found at www.imaging-resource.com, www.dcresource.com, www.steves-digicams.com, www.dpreview.com (British) and www.cameralabs.com (New Zealand).
The best inter-changeable lens reviews are at www.photozone.de (German), www.dpreview.com and www.imaging-resource.com. By far the best comparison of the digital sensors found in high-end cameras is at www.dxomark.com (French). All of these resources are English language sites.
Although all current digital cameras can save pictures in a compressed, ready-to-use JPEG file format, using JPEG compromises your ability to later correct and enhance photos and usually reduces overall quality and resolution. A camera that allows you to optionally use an uncompressed “RAW” file format is much more flexible and can capture the highest quality images.
However, you will need RAW-capable software, of which Adobe Photoshop Elements 7 is the least expensive, usually about $80 at Costco. Adobe Photoshop Lightroom ($299 list price) is a very modern, wonderfully intuitive and high-quality program that really shines with RAW images. Lightroom is fast becoming the choice of professional photographers. It’s still sufficiently easy to use and inexpensive so it’s also well-suited for any photographer who wants to get the most out of a higher-end camera. All digital SLR cameras, and a few higher-end compact cameras, have optional RAW file format capability.
Know your need
Generally, digital camera models are aimed at specific users, including:Casual family snapshots that will be displayed on smaller computer monitors or digital photo frames and will rarely be enlarged much beyond standard 4-by-6 or 8-by-10 prints. My recommendations for compact casual cameras include the Canon A590 IS, the Pentax W60, the Kodak z1085 IS, and the higher-end models in Sony’s W series, such as the Sony W120.
The best buy is the Canon A590 IS. Panasonic’s FX150 is a worthy high-end casual camera with the bonus of optional RAW files. Best buys for high-magnification, long-zoom ratio cameras include Kodak’s z1012 IS or, if you also want a RAW file option, the Kodak z1015 IS or the Panasonic FZ28, whose 18X Leica lens is considered unusually good. Unfortunately, the lower-end consumer models from Nikon and Olympus tend to get rather poor reviews.
Business users such as engineers, contractors, government agencies and attorneys who need to document specific evidence easily and with sharp detail. Suitable entry-level dSLR cameras include the Pentax K200d (it has the best kit lens), the Canon XSi (EOS 450D), and the Olympus E520. Semipro quality compact cameras for professional users are pretty much limited to the Canon G10 and the Panasonic LX3.
Lower-level but still decent-quality compact cameras with good lenses and midrange sensors include the Fuji F60fd or Fuji S100fs, the Nikon P6000, the Panasonic FX150 and the Kodak z1085IS.
Frequent travelers and vacationers who need decent quality in a very compact, versatile camera. Consider the Canon SD880 IS, the Canon SD990 IS or the Panasonic TZ-5.
“Enthusiasts,” including hobbyists, serious photography students at the college and university level and fine art photographers. Cameras in this range are often considered “semipro” models. The only semipro-level compact cameras worth considering are the 15MP Canon G10 and the 10MP Panasonic LX-3. Both are polished models. There are several very good digital SLR cameras in this range and so many lens options that you really should check some rigorous reviews before making a purchase.
One of the best is Nikon’s new D90, whose image quality and usability seem superb, especially with Nikon’s new, very sharp 16mm-85mm lens. I also like Pentax’s quite rugged, weather-sealed K20d with the older but still excellent 16mm-45mm F4 and 28mm-105mm F 3.2 lenses. The Pentax lenses are often the sharpest available in their price range, assuming you get a properly assembled copy. Canon’s new 50D is also highly regarded, but check out whichever Canon lens is sold with the body — the newer versions are fine but the older optics had a deservedly bad reputation. The image quality of Sony’s entries in this category, the A300 and A350, has been unfavorably compared to the similar Pentax K20d and Canon 50D.
Although professional photographers will sometimes use a semipro model like the Nikon D300, the Pentax K20d or the Canon 50D, serious working pros often prefer full frame digital SLR cameras. The least expensive full frame camera bodies are the Canon 5D Mark II, the Nikon D700, and the Sony A900, which range between $2,700 and $3,000, without a lens.
Unless you’ve got the proceeds of your most recent bank robbery still stuffed in your mattress, purchasing a full frame digital camera is probably beyond the needs and the means of anyone who can’t legitimately deduct it.
Local attorney Joseph Kashi received his bachelor’s and master’s degrees from MIT and has been writing and lecturing about technology throughout the U.S. since 1990 for American Bar Association, Alaska Bar Association and private publications. He also owned a computer store in Soldotna between 1990 and 2000.
Thursday, December 11, 2008
Plugged in: Low-cost computer fixes for tough times
Now that it’s official that the U.S. has been in a recession since December 2007 and North Slope crude oil sold for $35.61 a barrel last Friday, it’s even more critical to get the most for your money when upgrading your computer. It’s even better if you can boost your computing performance for free.
Hard disk performance has a much greater impact upon a computer’s performance than most nontechnical users might realize. Speeding up hard disk performance can make as much improvement as upgrading to a new computer with a later generation processor. Luckily, increasing hard disk performance can be straightforward and doesn’t require you to replace your entire computer system.
The newest locally available Western Digital and Hitachi hard disks, typically holding 300 to 500 gigabytes or more and spinning at 7,200 rpm, really pack data tightly. As result, not only do these hard disks have a very high storage capacity, but they also move a great deal more data under the read-write heads every second, making them potentially much faster under the right conditions than older, lower-capacity hard disks.
However, there are programs like Acronis Migrate Easy 7.0 that can simplify and ease the task by automating the entire hard disk upgrade and transfer process, particularly if you make the transfer using a USB portable hard disk enclosure to temporarily run your new hard disk during the transfer process. A free, 15-day trial copy of Acronis Migrate Easy 7.0 is available from www.acronis.com.
If the thought of opening your computer case causes trepidation, then include the cost of having this upgrade done by local professionals. If you have a professional open up your computer, then it may be worthwhile to upgrade the existing CPU processor if a significantly faster compatible CPU is still available, and to upgrade the RAM memory, preferably at least doubling it. If you plan to use Adobe’s new Photoshop CS4, then also consider replacing your existing video card with a fast new display card that has lots of memory onboard. The newest Photoshop CS4 uses the video card’s own processor to greatly increase Photoshop’s performance.
The performance of all hard disks, whether old or new, gradually degrades as they are used and files are stored and moved around. This is an inherent problem with the Windows operating system, not the hardware. The Windows operating system has a tendency to scatter partial fragments of each computer file all over the hard disk. That makes the hard disk’s read-write heads work much harder to load an application program or to read and write a data file, thus greatly slowing down a computer’s overall operation, regardless of how fast its processor might be.
The best solution is to continuously defragment your hard disk. In an ideal world, Windows should defragment every drive automatically in the background in order to maintain optimal performance, but Windows does not do so. Windows does include a disk defragmenting utility under the Start, Programs, Accessories, System Tools, Defragment menu item, but that Microsoft utility is mediocre. It has few options, must be run manually by the operation, slows a computer to a crawl while running for an hour or two, and does not really optimize disk performance. Still, it’s better than nothing and it’s provided free with the Windows operating system.
Several other system utility collections, such as Norton, include somewhat better hard disk optimization programs. However, in my experience, the clear choice for hard disk defragmentation and performance optimization is the Diskeeper family of products, available as downloads from www.diskeeper.com. Diskeeper allows you to download a free trial copy of the program that remains fully functional for 30 days, after which you must purchase a license and activate the product to continue using it. A free 30-day trial is useful as a one-time shot in the arm for a slowing computer, and allows you to evaluate whether purchasing the product is worthwhile.
Diskeeper’s “Home” version sells for $29.95, the “Professional” version for $59.95 and the “Pro Premier” version for $99.95. I suggest that the “Professional” version makes the most sense economically. It continuously optimizes and defragments your hard disk in the background without imposing a serious drain upon computing resources. There is no reason to buy the optional “Hyperfast” add-on module unless you have one of the new, cutting-edge, solid-state hard drives, and I don’t know a single person who does.
Even if you should replace your old hard disk with a new, faster drive, you’ll still notice a substantial performance improvement with continuous defrag-mentation.
Removing junk and temporary files from your hard disk and compressing the data can also improve system performance under some circumstances and, in any event, maximize your available storage. To access Microsoft’s hard disk cleanup tools, click on My Computer, then right click to select the hard disk to be cleaned and compressed, then click on the Properties menu item. A graphic display shows how much of the total hard disk space is in use.
In the graphic display for that hard disk, first click on the Disk Cleanup radio button. This will scan the selected hard disk for unused old files, temporary Internet content files, and other files that can be safely deleted. Then, left click on the Compress drive and the Allow Indexing Service check boxes, and start these operations by left clicking on the Apply button.
Then, sit back, make some coffee, and find a good book. You’ll not be using your computer for some time. After you’ve completed these tasks, and they must be performed separately for each hard disk, click on the tools menu item at the top of the disk’s graphic display.
You’ll see several options, including Error-Checking a hard disk and Defragmentation. Run Error Checking prior to defragmenting the drive. Otherwise, any disk errors may spread during the defragmentation process. If you have purchased Diskeeper, then that optional program will start when you press the Defragmentation program. Otherwise, Microsoft’s defragmentation accessory will run.
At the end of this rather tedious process, your hard disk should be in pretty decent shape and running noticeably faster.
Next week, we’ll discuss some nifty system cleanup programs that measure and fix computer system performance from a different angle.
Local attorney Joseph Kashi received his bachelor’s and master’s degrees from MIT and has been writing and lecturing about technology throughout the U.S. since 1990 for American Bar Association, Alaska Bar Association and private publications. He also owned a computer store in Soldotna between 1990 and 2000.
Hard disk performance has a much greater impact upon a computer’s performance than most nontechnical users might realize. Speeding up hard disk performance can make as much improvement as upgrading to a new computer with a later generation processor. Luckily, increasing hard disk performance can be straightforward and doesn’t require you to replace your entire computer system.
The newest locally available Western Digital and Hitachi hard disks, typically holding 300 to 500 gigabytes or more and spinning at 7,200 rpm, really pack data tightly. As result, not only do these hard disks have a very high storage capacity, but they also move a great deal more data under the read-write heads every second, making them potentially much faster under the right conditions than older, lower-capacity hard disks.
Sensible hardware upgrades
In some cases, just replacing the boot-up hard disk and reinstalling Windows and your programs and data can greatly rejuvenate a computer that’s a few years old and seemingly too slow. The local cost of a suitable new hard disk is well under $150 locally, even for a very high-capacity one, but replacing your primary hard disk and reinstalling Windows, programs and data is not a job for those who are technically faint of heart.However, there are programs like Acronis Migrate Easy 7.0 that can simplify and ease the task by automating the entire hard disk upgrade and transfer process, particularly if you make the transfer using a USB portable hard disk enclosure to temporarily run your new hard disk during the transfer process. A free, 15-day trial copy of Acronis Migrate Easy 7.0 is available from www.acronis.com.
If the thought of opening your computer case causes trepidation, then include the cost of having this upgrade done by local professionals. If you have a professional open up your computer, then it may be worthwhile to upgrade the existing CPU processor if a significantly faster compatible CPU is still available, and to upgrade the RAM memory, preferably at least doubling it. If you plan to use Adobe’s new Photoshop CS4, then also consider replacing your existing video card with a fast new display card that has lots of memory onboard. The newest Photoshop CS4 uses the video card’s own processor to greatly increase Photoshop’s performance.
Improving existing hard disk performance
The performance of all hard disks, whether old or new, gradually degrades as they are used and files are stored and moved around. This is an inherent problem with the Windows operating system, not the hardware. The Windows operating system has a tendency to scatter partial fragments of each computer file all over the hard disk. That makes the hard disk’s read-write heads work much harder to load an application program or to read and write a data file, thus greatly slowing down a computer’s overall operation, regardless of how fast its processor might be.
The best solution is to continuously defragment your hard disk. In an ideal world, Windows should defragment every drive automatically in the background in order to maintain optimal performance, but Windows does not do so. Windows does include a disk defragmenting utility under the Start, Programs, Accessories, System Tools, Defragment menu item, but that Microsoft utility is mediocre. It has few options, must be run manually by the operation, slows a computer to a crawl while running for an hour or two, and does not really optimize disk performance. Still, it’s better than nothing and it’s provided free with the Windows operating system.
Several other system utility collections, such as Norton, include somewhat better hard disk optimization programs. However, in my experience, the clear choice for hard disk defragmentation and performance optimization is the Diskeeper family of products, available as downloads from www.diskeeper.com. Diskeeper allows you to download a free trial copy of the program that remains fully functional for 30 days, after which you must purchase a license and activate the product to continue using it. A free 30-day trial is useful as a one-time shot in the arm for a slowing computer, and allows you to evaluate whether purchasing the product is worthwhile.
Diskeeper’s “Home” version sells for $29.95, the “Professional” version for $59.95 and the “Pro Premier” version for $99.95. I suggest that the “Professional” version makes the most sense economically. It continuously optimizes and defragments your hard disk in the background without imposing a serious drain upon computing resources. There is no reason to buy the optional “Hyperfast” add-on module unless you have one of the new, cutting-edge, solid-state hard drives, and I don’t know a single person who does.
Even if you should replace your old hard disk with a new, faster drive, you’ll still notice a substantial performance improvement with continuous defrag-mentation.
Removing junk and temporary files from your hard disk and compressing the data can also improve system performance under some circumstances and, in any event, maximize your available storage. To access Microsoft’s hard disk cleanup tools, click on My Computer, then right click to select the hard disk to be cleaned and compressed, then click on the Properties menu item. A graphic display shows how much of the total hard disk space is in use.
In the graphic display for that hard disk, first click on the Disk Cleanup radio button. This will scan the selected hard disk for unused old files, temporary Internet content files, and other files that can be safely deleted. Then, left click on the Compress drive and the Allow Indexing Service check boxes, and start these operations by left clicking on the Apply button.
Then, sit back, make some coffee, and find a good book. You’ll not be using your computer for some time. After you’ve completed these tasks, and they must be performed separately for each hard disk, click on the tools menu item at the top of the disk’s graphic display.
You’ll see several options, including Error-Checking a hard disk and Defragmentation. Run Error Checking prior to defragmenting the drive. Otherwise, any disk errors may spread during the defragmentation process. If you have purchased Diskeeper, then that optional program will start when you press the Defragmentation program. Otherwise, Microsoft’s defragmentation accessory will run.
At the end of this rather tedious process, your hard disk should be in pretty decent shape and running noticeably faster.
Next week, we’ll discuss some nifty system cleanup programs that measure and fix computer system performance from a different angle.
Local attorney Joseph Kashi received his bachelor’s and master’s degrees from MIT and has been writing and lecturing about technology throughout the U.S. since 1990 for American Bar Association, Alaska Bar Association and private publications. He also owned a computer store in Soldotna between 1990 and 2000.
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
‘Cyberdoom’: Better paranoid than sorry
Over the past several weeks, we’ve discussed some obvious, mostly internal, computer security concerns that might compromise your privacy, your data and your business.
In this article, our last on computer security, we’ll talk about intentional security threats arising from external sources — in other words, viruses, “spybots,” Trojan Horses and other malicious software. In this context, the old maxim, “If you’re not a little paranoid, you’re not being sufficiently careful,” is assuredly true.
There are numerous potentially serious security problems that have roamed the Internet so long that their exact genesis can be hard to pinpoint. And, of course, new ones are added daily.
Computer viruses and other malicious software are easy to write — 12-year-olds can download virus writing software even though setting any malicious software loose is a serious federal crime.
Viruses typically are designed to simply wreak havoc on your data and, less often, on your hardware. Other malicious software include “rootkits” that burrow almost undetectably into the very core of your computer operating system, and various forms of spyware that quietly send select data and possibly keystrokes such as passwords and PIN numbers, to a remote, often obscure location.
There’s not a single general method of exchanging data that will always be secure without taking some precautions. At one time, most malicious software was thought to spread through floppy disks — remember them? Probably, but only if you are more than 13 years old.
Back then, malicious e-mail attachments and even “free” picture and screen saver files were primary sources of external computer infections. More recently, malicious programs have been hitchhiking within ubiquitous USB flash drives and even digital photo frames.
In fact, the U.S. Army just banned the use of flash drives until further notice, and new Chinese digital photo frames were recently found to include hidden security-breaching software that could transfer to your computer by hitchhiking on your SD photo memory card. Are you feeling paranoid yet?
Yet, even if cyberdoom may someday occur, day-to-day computing can be fairly trouble-free if you take reasonable precautions. Avoid sharing data with users and computer systems that you don’t trust. Be careful about opening certain kinds of e-mail attachments, such as executable programs and files with embedded macros. Set your Windows system to limit the access of Java and ActiveX scripts.
There several basic lines of defense. First and foremost is to ensure that you have properly installed all Microsoft security patches. First, run Windows Update. Then, check whether your operating system’s basic security is current by running Belarc Advisor, available as a free download from www.belarc.com. Belarc is a recognized security provider to federal agencies and their free Advisor program not only does a comprehensive system audit, but identifies any missing or improperly installed security patches and includes a link that takes you directly to the Microsoft Web page that provides further information and, in most cases, a direct download of the missing security patches.
Another generally accepted, free security program is Spybot 1.6, which seeks out and deactivates spyware, a type of software that, in its least malicious form, silently tracks your Web surfing behavior to create a marketing profile of you that is transmitted without your knowledge to third parties and perhaps sold to advertising companies or scammers.
Internet “cookies,” which track your access to various Web sites, are among the most common but typically most benign sort of spyware. Much more dangerous spyware exists and you should periodically scan your computer for it using either Spybot or the spyware component of Internet security suites, such as AVG 8. One reputable source for Spybot is www.softpedia.org. The URL for Spybot 1.6 is http://www.softpedia.com/get/Internet/Popup-Ad-Spyware-Blockers/SpyBotSearch-Destroy.shtml.
You’ll need comp-rehensive security software to block attempts to infiltrate and infect your computer system. Norton Anti-virus used to be a favorite, in part because there was a time back in the old DOS command prompt days when Norton was about the only one around.
Several years ago, the Norton-branded software started losing favor because it was a resource hog that slowed down computer systems by as much as 30 percent, in my own tests, and because its somewhat dated programming approach seemed to introduce instabilities into Windows computer systems. As a result, other antivirus programs gained a foothold and ultimately expanded into fully functional security suites that now dominate the market.
At the moment, my favorite Internet security software is AVG Antivirus, now in version 8, and typically purchased by paid Internet download, although a free trial version is available. Grisoft (www.grisoft.com) publishes AVG Antivirus in the Czech Republic. (It’s OK — they’re now a member of NATO and switched to our side. )
AVG version 8 has several nice features: It’s updated several times a day and its subscriptions are both reasonably priced and run for two years. AVG 8 does not cause system instabilities and does not make heavy demands on a modern computer’s resources, and hence will not perceptibly slow it unless it’s doing a full hard disk scan.
The entire AVG security suite installs by default and is highly configurable to fit whatever blend of security, performance and ease of use most suits you.
You can easily configure each AVG module using the “components” submenu from the main AVG menu bar and then clicking on the component that you want to configure. When you configure AVG 8, ensure that the system updates itself and scans your system at least daily, even though scanning your computer temporarily slows it.
Automatically scan all incoming and outgoing e-mail and Web pages. Also scan all potentially infectable data and program files traveling solely within your system.
Enable “heuristic” analysis that spots suspicious software behavior even if that software doesn’t match any currently known virus. Enable the “rootkit,” “resident shield,” “Web shield” and spyware modules. Although AVG includes an optional firewall program, I still prefer using Microsoft’s Windows Firewall because it works more transparently. AVG’s firewall is so secure that I am often unable to even access my Internet connection and expose my system to potential virus infections and security breaches.
Now, that’s secure!
Local attorney Joseph Kashi received his bachelor’s and master’s degrees from MIT and has been writing and lecturing about technology throughout the U.S. since 1990 for American Bar Association, Alaska Bar Association and private publications. He also owned a computer store in Soldotna between 1990 and 2000.
In this article, our last on computer security, we’ll talk about intentional security threats arising from external sources — in other words, viruses, “spybots,” Trojan Horses and other malicious software. In this context, the old maxim, “If you’re not a little paranoid, you’re not being sufficiently careful,” is assuredly true.
There are numerous potentially serious security problems that have roamed the Internet so long that their exact genesis can be hard to pinpoint. And, of course, new ones are added daily.
Computer viruses and other malicious software are easy to write — 12-year-olds can download virus writing software even though setting any malicious software loose is a serious federal crime.
Viruses typically are designed to simply wreak havoc on your data and, less often, on your hardware. Other malicious software include “rootkits” that burrow almost undetectably into the very core of your computer operating system, and various forms of spyware that quietly send select data and possibly keystrokes such as passwords and PIN numbers, to a remote, often obscure location.
There’s not a single general method of exchanging data that will always be secure without taking some precautions. At one time, most malicious software was thought to spread through floppy disks — remember them? Probably, but only if you are more than 13 years old.
Back then, malicious e-mail attachments and even “free” picture and screen saver files were primary sources of external computer infections. More recently, malicious programs have been hitchhiking within ubiquitous USB flash drives and even digital photo frames.
In fact, the U.S. Army just banned the use of flash drives until further notice, and new Chinese digital photo frames were recently found to include hidden security-breaching software that could transfer to your computer by hitchhiking on your SD photo memory card. Are you feeling paranoid yet?
Yet, even if cyberdoom may someday occur, day-to-day computing can be fairly trouble-free if you take reasonable precautions. Avoid sharing data with users and computer systems that you don’t trust. Be careful about opening certain kinds of e-mail attachments, such as executable programs and files with embedded macros. Set your Windows system to limit the access of Java and ActiveX scripts.
There several basic lines of defense. First and foremost is to ensure that you have properly installed all Microsoft security patches. First, run Windows Update. Then, check whether your operating system’s basic security is current by running Belarc Advisor, available as a free download from www.belarc.com. Belarc is a recognized security provider to federal agencies and their free Advisor program not only does a comprehensive system audit, but identifies any missing or improperly installed security patches and includes a link that takes you directly to the Microsoft Web page that provides further information and, in most cases, a direct download of the missing security patches.
Another generally accepted, free security program is Spybot 1.6, which seeks out and deactivates spyware, a type of software that, in its least malicious form, silently tracks your Web surfing behavior to create a marketing profile of you that is transmitted without your knowledge to third parties and perhaps sold to advertising companies or scammers.
Internet “cookies,” which track your access to various Web sites, are among the most common but typically most benign sort of spyware. Much more dangerous spyware exists and you should periodically scan your computer for it using either Spybot or the spyware component of Internet security suites, such as AVG 8. One reputable source for Spybot is www.softpedia.org. The URL for Spybot 1.6 is http://www.softpedia.com/get/Internet/Popup-Ad-Spyware-Blockers/SpyBotSearch-Destroy.shtml.
You’ll need comp-rehensive security software to block attempts to infiltrate and infect your computer system. Norton Anti-virus used to be a favorite, in part because there was a time back in the old DOS command prompt days when Norton was about the only one around.
Several years ago, the Norton-branded software started losing favor because it was a resource hog that slowed down computer systems by as much as 30 percent, in my own tests, and because its somewhat dated programming approach seemed to introduce instabilities into Windows computer systems. As a result, other antivirus programs gained a foothold and ultimately expanded into fully functional security suites that now dominate the market.
At the moment, my favorite Internet security software is AVG Antivirus, now in version 8, and typically purchased by paid Internet download, although a free trial version is available. Grisoft (www.grisoft.com) publishes AVG Antivirus in the Czech Republic. (It’s OK — they’re now a member of NATO and switched to our side. )
AVG version 8 has several nice features: It’s updated several times a day and its subscriptions are both reasonably priced and run for two years. AVG 8 does not cause system instabilities and does not make heavy demands on a modern computer’s resources, and hence will not perceptibly slow it unless it’s doing a full hard disk scan.
The entire AVG security suite installs by default and is highly configurable to fit whatever blend of security, performance and ease of use most suits you.
You can easily configure each AVG module using the “components” submenu from the main AVG menu bar and then clicking on the component that you want to configure. When you configure AVG 8, ensure that the system updates itself and scans your system at least daily, even though scanning your computer temporarily slows it.
Automatically scan all incoming and outgoing e-mail and Web pages. Also scan all potentially infectable data and program files traveling solely within your system.
Enable “heuristic” analysis that spots suspicious software behavior even if that software doesn’t match any currently known virus. Enable the “rootkit,” “resident shield,” “Web shield” and spyware modules. Although AVG includes an optional firewall program, I still prefer using Microsoft’s Windows Firewall because it works more transparently. AVG’s firewall is so secure that I am often unable to even access my Internet connection and expose my system to potential virus infections and security breaches.
Now, that’s secure!
Local attorney Joseph Kashi received his bachelor’s and master’s degrees from MIT and has been writing and lecturing about technology throughout the U.S. since 1990 for American Bar Association, Alaska Bar Association and private publications. He also owned a computer store in Soldotna between 1990 and 2000.
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
Computer security: Evening the odds
Putting the final touches on computer security is an intentional misnomer — there’s no finality to computer security. It’s always been, and probably always will be, a continuous contest between those of us striving to protect our systems and our data and those attempting to either hack into our systems or simply cause random destruction.
This week, I’ll suggest some basic operating system approaches that you can take to make that contest at least an even proposition.
The Internet is now a nearly indispensable and highly useful part of nearly everyone’s life. Grandparents communicate with grandchildren, financial transactions and bill payments are completed with a few clicks, and e-mailing PDF files allows us to facilely communicate with clients whom we have never met. It allows me to file this column with the editor rather than driving into town on a snowy evening. However, Internet communications can be likened to walking in a beautiful, but snake-infested, jungle: you need to watch where you step.
Most importantly, train yourself, your employees and your families to be security conscious. Computer security is as much common sense and a security-conscious mindset as it is a specific program or piece of hardware.
Learn how to use your programs so you don’t accidently delete or overwrite data. Take a second and reflect before unthinkingly confirming a file delete or file overwrite dialog box.
Avoid the back alleys of computing that are likely to mug your data or privacy. Some types of Web sites, especially those that your teens and children might be tempted to frequent, are obvious places to contract computer viruses and other malicious software (often called “malware”). Other Internet traps include e-mails that solicit your assistance in supposed foreign money-laundering schemes, alleged employment solicitations, or other get-rich-quick schemes such as the ostensible request that you confirm an out-of-the blue award of a Wal-Mart card or some such to you.
Although most of us believe we are too smart to fall for such obvious scams, I’ve seen a fair number of supposedly sophisticated businesspeople fall for them. One peninsula businessperson was convicted of felony theft and jailed after raiding their trust account for hundreds of thousands of dollars to invest in that Internet scheme. Needless to say, the money transferred over the Internet was never recovered, and several clients whose trust account moneys were raided were also inadvertently scammed.
Other Internet sites look and sound like the real thing but are silently redirected to scammers. This practice is termed “phishing” (fishing) but can be readily countered by turning on the “phishing filter” in Microsoft’s Internet Explorer 7 and by using some common sense.
NEVER give out personal and financial data in response to any sort of unsolicited e-mail. Be especially wary of unsolicited e-mails to the effect that your login data or financial and bank account information should be verified or updated. These are often crude, but sometimes effective, attempts to get enough information to victimize the unwary.
If you really must make changes, then do so by telephone to an independently verified telephone number to your bank’s service department or a known, good login site that you independently enter into your browser’s URL window. Be particularly careful about opening the attachments to unsolicited e-mail. This is a favored delivery mechanism for malicious payloads.
ALWAYS enable some sort of firewall program. Remember that Internet communication is a two-way street. Just as what goes up, comes down, what comes in can also go out. There’s a huge amount of rogue software roaming the Internet that can be used, and often is used, to silently plumb every corner of your computer and export all sorts of data to persons artfully hidden behind several layers of the Internet.
A firewall reduces the chance of someone beaming into your computer and exercising mind control over it. You can find the Windows firewall settings as a separate icon on the Windows Control Panel by clicking on Start, Settings, Control Panel, Windows Firewall. If you use the Internet to communicate between office and remote locations, then be sure that you set up what is termed a “virtual private network,” which uses a dedicated port for secure, encrypted two-way communication over the Internet.
Next week I’ll discuss more about basic operating system approaches, including downloading and installing security and operating system updates.
Local attorney Joseph Kashi received his bachelor’s and master’s degrees from MIT and has been writing and lecturing about technology throughout the U.S. since 1990 for American Bar Association, Alaska Bar Association and private publications. He also owned a computer store in Soldotna between 1990 and 2000.
This week, I’ll suggest some basic operating system approaches that you can take to make that contest at least an even proposition.
The Internet is now a nearly indispensable and highly useful part of nearly everyone’s life. Grandparents communicate with grandchildren, financial transactions and bill payments are completed with a few clicks, and e-mailing PDF files allows us to facilely communicate with clients whom we have never met. It allows me to file this column with the editor rather than driving into town on a snowy evening. However, Internet communications can be likened to walking in a beautiful, but snake-infested, jungle: you need to watch where you step.
Most importantly, train yourself, your employees and your families to be security conscious. Computer security is as much common sense and a security-conscious mindset as it is a specific program or piece of hardware.
Learn how to use your programs so you don’t accidently delete or overwrite data. Take a second and reflect before unthinkingly confirming a file delete or file overwrite dialog box.
Avoid the back alleys of computing that are likely to mug your data or privacy. Some types of Web sites, especially those that your teens and children might be tempted to frequent, are obvious places to contract computer viruses and other malicious software (often called “malware”). Other Internet traps include e-mails that solicit your assistance in supposed foreign money-laundering schemes, alleged employment solicitations, or other get-rich-quick schemes such as the ostensible request that you confirm an out-of-the blue award of a Wal-Mart card or some such to you.
Although most of us believe we are too smart to fall for such obvious scams, I’ve seen a fair number of supposedly sophisticated businesspeople fall for them. One peninsula businessperson was convicted of felony theft and jailed after raiding their trust account for hundreds of thousands of dollars to invest in that Internet scheme. Needless to say, the money transferred over the Internet was never recovered, and several clients whose trust account moneys were raided were also inadvertently scammed.
Other Internet sites look and sound like the real thing but are silently redirected to scammers. This practice is termed “phishing” (fishing) but can be readily countered by turning on the “phishing filter” in Microsoft’s Internet Explorer 7 and by using some common sense.
NEVER give out personal and financial data in response to any sort of unsolicited e-mail. Be especially wary of unsolicited e-mails to the effect that your login data or financial and bank account information should be verified or updated. These are often crude, but sometimes effective, attempts to get enough information to victimize the unwary.
If you really must make changes, then do so by telephone to an independently verified telephone number to your bank’s service department or a known, good login site that you independently enter into your browser’s URL window. Be particularly careful about opening the attachments to unsolicited e-mail. This is a favored delivery mechanism for malicious payloads.
ALWAYS enable some sort of firewall program. Remember that Internet communication is a two-way street. Just as what goes up, comes down, what comes in can also go out. There’s a huge amount of rogue software roaming the Internet that can be used, and often is used, to silently plumb every corner of your computer and export all sorts of data to persons artfully hidden behind several layers of the Internet.
A firewall reduces the chance of someone beaming into your computer and exercising mind control over it. You can find the Windows firewall settings as a separate icon on the Windows Control Panel by clicking on Start, Settings, Control Panel, Windows Firewall. If you use the Internet to communicate between office and remote locations, then be sure that you set up what is termed a “virtual private network,” which uses a dedicated port for secure, encrypted two-way communication over the Internet.
Next week I’ll discuss more about basic operating system approaches, including downloading and installing security and operating system updates.
Local attorney Joseph Kashi received his bachelor’s and master’s degrees from MIT and has been writing and lecturing about technology throughout the U.S. since 1990 for American Bar Association, Alaska Bar Association and private publications. He also owned a computer store in Soldotna between 1990 and 2000.
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